The starter of fried devilled chicken and livers on toasted sourdough was deep and smoky, and wrapped in a silky rich sauce. The trio of seared Norfolk scallops on a bed of baby fennel, with caramelised orange and crispy bacon was sensational as the citrus punctured the salty bacon and sweet scallop. And the duo of slow-cooked pork belly and confit cheek of Dingley Dell pork, topped with crisp, fried sage was deep and indulgent, lightened by the clever introduction of a cauliflower cheese purée.
Next was the North Atlantic pollock, served with fricassée of wild mushrooms and baby leeks with a red wine butter sauce. The juxtaposition of white fish, salty crisp skin with the velvet rich red wine sauce was beautiful, and the mushroom fricassée was just as impressive and robust in flavour. The Gressingham duck breast perfectly pink with sweet baby carrots, celeriac and a lemon thyme emulsion was also hugely popular. And the smoke parmesan running through the wild mushroom risotto gave it an interesting edge.